Crocheted this skirt with the idea of making a short, a version for myself since I already made one for my daughter. But then I added an extra rows of dc, which made it quite longer from waist down to the crotch area. So instead of frogging off and removing the extra rows I decided to continue to make it into a maxi skirt instead.
Using two cakes of solid colored yarn which were thin then of 2 ply each, they were freebies from my yarn supplier with my previous yarn purchase, I made my own yarn mix and use it on the dc rows and the solid color on the sc rows for contrast.
It turned out that the finished skirt has an ethnic vibe probably because of the color combination which is easy to match up with casual or formal top.
The skirt is crocheted in 100% cotton which gave this project a solid fabric-like feel and texture which is good to wear on hot summer days.
And since the skirt is cinched on the waistline with drawstrings, it has more room for comfort for fitting and movement.
TOOLS AND THINGS NEEDED:
1. Yarn- I used 100% cooton 10 ply fine cotton from Baguio.
– I used a mixed colored yarn for the dc (neon orange and light blue yarns) and solid color neon orange for the sc rows.
2. Hook- 3.5 mm hook
3. Stitch marker- 3-4 pieces
5. Tapestry needle
6. Tape measure
STITCHES USED: US TERM
1. Chain – ch
2. Double crochet- dc
3. Single crochet- sc
4. Slip stitch – slp st
The skirt is crocheted in rounds on the upper part so there is no sewing on the sides and in panels on the lower part with the end joint at the center back and crocheted from waist- down.
Start measuring the widest part of your hips with the measuring tape and add 3 inches.
Crochet the foundations according to your obtained measurement.
Slp st to form a ring. Make sure that the chains are not twisted when forming the ring.
Ch 2 and dc on the ch where you slp st and dc on the back loop only.
Dc on the next ch up to the last ch using the back loops only.
After the last ch, slp st on the ch of the first formed dc (not on the starting ch, please take note!) This particular ch is positioned horizontally, first ch that is positioned horizontally.
Ch 2 and dc on the ch where you slp st using the back loops only.
Dc on the next ch up to the last ch using the back loop only.
After the last ch, slp st on the ch of the first ch of the first formed dc (not on the starting ch, please take note!) This particular ch is positioned horizontally, first ch positioned horizontally.
Repeat Row 2 pattern.
Before going to Row 9 which will be an sc row, you need to change your yarn for another color.
After the last dc on the last ch, as you slp st on the ch on the first dc from the start of the row, drop the previous yarn and pick another yarn color and yarn over hook with the new yarn and pull through to form the slp st. Tie once or twice the two yarn at the back and cut the first yarn leaving about 2 inches for weaving.
Ch 1 and 1 sc on the same ch where you slp st using the back loop only.
Sc on the next ch up the the last ch using the back loops only.
After the last sc on the last ch, slp st on the first ch of the first sc formed.
You can cut the previous yarn and tie a knot with the new yarn to secure.
Repeat Row 6 pattern.
Before going to Row 13 which will be a dc row, you need to change your yarn back to the first color.
After the last sc on the last ch, as you slp st on the ch on the first sc from the start of the row, drop the previous yarn and pick another yarn color and yarn over hook with the new yarn and pull through to form the slp st. Tie once or twice the two yarn at the back and cut the second yarn leaving about 2 inches for weaving.
Repeat Row 2 pattern
The dc rows are composed of 8 rows.
The sc rows are composed of 4 rows.
Make 4 groups of dc rows alternating with 4 groups of sc rows as well before doing the slit part. But you can decide where to start the slit part. Whether you put it mid-thigh or below the knee.
The slit part is crochet in panel. And the end joint at the back panel is retained.
Make sure to start your slit on the dc rows and not on the sc rows.
Put a marker on the ch where you have decided to start your slit on both sides. You are going to start on the dc rows.
The pattern on the front panel is a bit different on the back panel because of the end joint at the center of the back. Start the back panel first before the front, so as not to cut the yarn anymore which is ends at the end joint this time, since you are going to start the back panel from the center end joint.
Start at the end joint.
Ch 2 and dc on the same ch where you slp st and dc on the rest of the chains up to the ch where you will have the side slit. And on the final dc, insert the hook on both on the front loop and back loop of the ch instead of the back loop only. Ch 1 and cut the yarn leaving an inch or 2 inches. (This is just the left half of the back panel).
For the right half on the back panel.
Tie the yarn on the ch where you place your stich marker.
Ch 2 and dc on the same ch where you tie the knot and dc on the rest of the chains up to the last ch before the end joint at the center and slp st on the ch of the first dc. (Not on the starting 2 chains.)
Ch 2 and dc on the ch where you slp st and dc on the rest of the chains up to the last ch using the back loops only except the very last ch where you insert the hook on both of the front and back loops.
Always ch 1 before cutting the yarn at the each end of the row for the back panel.
Repeat the pattern until you will have 8 rows of dc rows, the same with the upper part of the skirt.
When changing the yarn for the sc rows. You will also start at the end joint using the same principle when changing the yarn and changing the stitch from dc to sc.
Starting on the right side of your slit going to the left.
Tie the yarn in both of the front and back loops of the chain instead of the back loop only.
Ch 2 and dc on the same ch using the back loop only. Dc on the remaining chains up to the ch where the other slit should be and using the back loops only.
For the final dc on the last ch, insert the hook in both front and back loops instead of the back loop only.
After the last dc on the last ch, ch 1 and cut the yarn leaving about 2 inches.
When changing yarn and changing stitch, you will start at the ch where the last ch at the back panel ends. But you are not going to connect the stitch with the stitches on the back panel, hence the slit.
The numbers dc and sc rows on the panel part of the skirt is just the same with the upper part of the skirt where you crochet in rounds. We have 8 rows for the dc and 4 rows for the sc.
Finish off the edges of the skirt with sc on all each chains, both the front and back panels as well as the edge on the waistline.
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Pair two tail ends, starting at the top up to the last one to the hem. Tie a simple square knot, not to tight for the tassel to slip through. (If you have an odd number of tail ends, tie the last three ends, it won’t matter).
Get a cardboard with enough length for your tassels, this will be your template for the length and wind 10 times or more. Cut one end and fold in half and slide the yarns to the tie ends. You can use a large hook to pull through the yarns. Slide the hook from the wrong side of the skirt with the right side of the skirt facing up. Slide the two tail ends as well together with the yarn and cut the tail ends leaving about 1/8 of an inch.
Chain two strands of the yarn to make a thicker chain and longer than the measurements of the waist of the skirt and weave between 3 stitches on the waist area on the first or second row of dc from the top. Add tassels on both ends after weaving.
Using the tapestry needle, weave the ends of the yarns on the wrong side of the skirt.
Video tutorial here.
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